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July 22, 2007

Guilin

Ask any Chinese person where you should visit in China and Guilin will most definitely be one of the first places they list. I first learned of the place when all my Chinese friends I met on my mission in Australia recommended it. It's one of those places in China that has inspired poets and painters for thousands of years. I have always thought traditional Chinese paintings were somewhat fantasized mythical landscapes. After traveling down the Li river on a rainy day where misty clouds covered the karst, I know God has a fantastic imagination and appreciation for beauty.

Bamboo Raft Ride

Janae and I rode on this hand-made bamboo raft with our personal guide. The scenery was simply amazing.

River tour

Guilin is most famous for the unique karst topography, mountains that look more like jagged teeth coming out of the earth. The best place to see this is from the Li river where both sides of the river are lined by karst mountains. The scenery was much better than the people taking us down the river.

Before the day started, Mom felt sick early that morning and was not going to go. Janae was kind enough to accompany her (it wasn't a total loss since she wasn't looking forward to a 4 hour boat ride down a slow river! They ended up having a great time taking a taxi to explore Yangshuo, the small town where our river tour ended). After pretending to speak little Chinese and arguing with the tour guide, who incidentally assumed I was Korean, we ended up paying 20% of mom's ticket for the cancellation. It's funny how regardless of the country you are in, people always speak slower and louder to you if they think you don't understand. It's universal! Speaking louder helps a foreigner understand a language they don't know (or pretend they don't know)! As with ALL things Chinese, negotiation was drawn out and painful but we were more stubborn and got away without paying for Mom's full tour ticket.

The tour boats include lunch which is cooked fresh from the kitchen and full cooking staff at the back of the boat. The base lunch included with the tour is a box of rice with a couple slices of steamed cucumber. The good food costs extra. The 'tourist trap' experience gets better - if you spend a certain limit on lunch - 2/3 the price of the tour, you can have lunch on the upper deck of the boat where you can enjoy 360 degree view - otherwise, you eat lunch on the lower deck that has no balcony. When is lunch served? It's served when the boat passes the most beautiful parts of the tour. To ensure you get the best views, be sure to upgrade your lunch.

As the scenery is beautiful, the tour company is good to ensure you get the best pictures you can. To do this, they have a professional photographer on board who gave us a photo-tour of the river where he gave tips on which angles, zooms, and aperatures to use for each 'must get' shot. While giving this mini-photo course, he would explain objectively how most digital cameras were unable to get the shot because of some limitation. After giving the generous free course, he proceeded to offer to take pictures for anybody who wanted with his Nikon SLR for a price. Half way through the tour, they brought up the photos again and said pitched by saying if you are not satisfied with your camera's pictures at that point to not fret because the professional photographer will take pictures for you on the back half of the tour for half off! I love tourist traps. It's like going to church. It's the same everywhere in the world. I wouldn't expect anything less.

Also true of most tours is meeting wonderful people. We ended up meeting a couple from Shanxi who were just a lot of fun. They were Chinese traveling within China and had their own backpacker's guide which was much better than Lonely Planet. Written in Chinese for Chinese - of course it's better than a Westerner's guide. They were able to give us all the tips on how not to get ripped off while traveling. Advice a couple days late but helpful for the rest of our trip. Both owned businesses and seemed fairly saavy - the girlfriend ran a tattoo parlor. (They're in the cave picture. Part of our river tour included a tour of a cave in a boat!)

Another couple we met from Guandong were essentially on their honeymoon. The guy was a gamer who spends his life online with his friends - one of which has spent over $30,000 renminbi (over $4,000 USD) to upgrade his avatar! He has the time since he has a cushy government bureaucratic type job. Her on the other hand works 7 days a week as an accountant with only a couple days a month off! However, they are required by law to not work more than 8 hours a day. I prefer my weekends.

July 13, 2007

2 Sunsets and a Sunrise Over SIberia

Our flight to and from Beijing flew over Canada, the Bearing Straight, and Siberia. The views from the plane made the trip a lot more bearable...for me at least. Janae did great for being pregnant on 13 hour flights! Here are some pictures I took from the plane. We saw seas of icebergs, glaciers, mountain ranges, sunsets and sunrises over seas of clouds.

Rest of pictures from flight

July 9, 2007

Babymoon!!!

What's a babymoon? It's basically the last trip we get to take before our baby comes. I had no idea a couple months ago until I was out for dinner with Goldman and the ARM desk. Donna, who recently had a beautiful boy, and Steve started describing the concept to me. I had no idea it would turn into a 3 week trek around China!

Before we found out Janae was pregnant with our first child, I thought all plans of travel were gone. When I heard my Mom and my sister were going to go to China to meet up with my Uncle and travel around China, it didn't even cross my mind that we could go. At the time, Janae had lost almost 20 lbs and was incessantly sick during her first trimester.

Mary was going to travel to Nepal to work at a health center there before heading to med school (she's actually starting at Case-Western in Ohio this week!). After Nepal she planned on meeting my Mom in China to travel around with her older brother and possibly her younger sister and her Mom. Family reunion in China! Janae started feeling a little better and we decided to join in the family fun.

I was pleasantly surprised by all Beijing had to offer. It's one of the oldest cities in the world where we took a 3-wheel bike tour to see the old hutongs (ancient alleyways that have been around since Mongol occupation). We had a local pedal us around while we sat in the back carriage while giving us a history lesson. He sure worked hard for his $4-5 US!

Fun and games in Heaven

Temple of Heaven park (Tiantan) is best seen in the early morning when it is chalk full of old people doing all sorts of activities like taiqi, singing, dancing, hackey, and all sorts of games. I even met the inventor of a game where you take a cloth hoop and toss it your partner who catches it with his neck. Its a derivation of an ancient game and the guy has articles and articles written on him about it which he was happy to show me. We also met masters of different martial arts doing their thing, singing groups, mini dance performances with a full on orchestra and director, old men playing chess, a blind man playing the harmonica, and best of all, these street performers didn't ask for money! They did it for fun. What a great way to retire - go to the park in the morning with all your friends and do something you love!

The park is famous for the ritual temple site used by Ming and Qing emperors.

Cloudy Days on the Wall

The day we needed clear skies to see the Great Wall, we got clouds and a lot of mist. I did what I could with Photoshop to get the otherwise invisible wall to show up. Traveling with a pregnant women definitely has its advantages. We took the cable car straight up the mountain and straight down allowing us to enjoy the fog covered wall at the top of the mountain instead of having to hike through zero visibility to see the 10 feet in front of us at the top. That day, the view at the top was worth riding a car up to see...not worth hiking to see.

Ming Tombs

Emperors of China like pharaohs of Egypt built extravagant tombs for themselves in which they buried their treasures, wives, and servants. The Chinese equivalent to Egypt's Valley of the Kings are the Ming Tombs where 13 emperors of the Ming dynasty are buried.

Miles and miles before arriving at the tombs were ancient pathways paved with statues of different animals and creatures meant to protect the mausoleums. Feng-shui also dictates the region be littered with Buddhist temples to ward off evil spirits that accompany tombs, some of which still in use. Our taxi driver insisted on taking us to one of these temples to cleanse ourselves of the evil spirits we came in contact with while visiting the tombs.

Summer Palace

Build a Summer palace or build a Navy? Would think Bush would be better off renovating his ranch or trying to take Iraq? Maybe he should take a lesson from Dowager Cixi who decided she needed a summer resort more than a navy and built an extravagant resort that includes palaces, temples, bridges, a man-made lakes built to re-create China's famous West Lake in HangZhou, and and waterways of Suzhou (China's Venice) where we dressed as King and Queen from Qing style.

Forbidden City

A peddler outside the tourist trap pushed us NOT to go inside but take a tour of the city with him instead. When we said no, he said there's nothing good to see inside because it's all under construction. We should have listened to him. Beijing is restoring major parts of the Forbidden City in preparations for 2008 Olympics. The sites were still impressive and I did appreciate the fresh paint on the already restored portions. The sun was HOT and the large open courtyards between buildings offered little relief. I have no idea how Janae made it through being pregnant.

From Beijing we went on to Guilin before going to Shanghai for our mini family reunion.

Links to other pictures around Beijing